Archive for August, 2009

How to grow tomatoes – Part 6

Friday, August 21st, 2009

Sick Tomatoes 1

The tastiest tomatoes of all aren’t found in the grocery store. The Brandywine and the Cherokee Purple, the Mortgage Lifter and the Ananas Noir, the Principe Borghese and the Tiffen Mennonite, all the wonderful heirloom varieties and the new hybrids are only found in a few specialty markets and thousands of backyard gardens. Make your summer complete by raising healthy tomato vines loaded with tasty, juicy tomatoes. Whether you want them for fresh eating or grilling, sauces, canning, drying, or freezing, there is a variety – or two or three or ten – just right for you.

Raising tomatoes isn’t difficult, but there are some tricks to getting big, healthy, disease-free vines.

CHOOSE THE VARIETIES

What tomato varieties should you choose? There are hundreds of varieties available, and the choices can be dazzling. You can usually limit your choices quickly if you think about what you want the tomatoes for. Sauces? You’ll want firm-fleshed plum tomatoes, also called sauce or Roma tomatoes, such as Principe Borghese. Competing with your neighbors for the first ripe tomatoes on the block? You’ll want to investigate ultra-early varieties such as the old-fashioned Stupice or the newer Beaverlodge. Biggest tomato at the State Fair? Try the hybrid Big Beef or the heirloom Old German. Tiny tomatoes for salads? Try the classic cherry tomatoes, or newer grape and currant tomatoes. Or check out he heirloom variety, Yellow Pear, which bears pear-shaped yellow fruits no more than 1 1/2 inches long. Slicing or grilling? Slicing or grilling? Most mid-season or heirlooms will fill the bill. Also note whether the variety is determinate or indeterminate. Determinate plants are bushy and suitable for containers and small gardens. Indeterminate plants grow tall and vine-like. They will need strong support and ample room.

START INDOORS

Some specialty nurseries will grow heirloom variety tomato plants, but more often than not, you’ll have to grow your own if you want special varieties. Sow the seeds in sterile seed starting mix in 3 or 4 inch pots. A light sprinkling of cinnamon on the surface of the soil will help prevent damping-off disease. Put the pots in a warm place until the seed germinate, then put under strong grow-lights. If possible, keep the plants on the cool side, between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. This helps prevent them from becoming leggy. The time-honored method of growing seedlings in tin cans in a sunny windowsill doesn’t always yield satisfactory seedlings

Challenges of growing tomatoes – Part 3

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009
Italian Mazano tomatoes grown from seed

There’s nothing more satisfying than producing one’s own food! Sow a seed, set out a transplant and you sit back daydreaming about that first, juicy tomato of the season. Well, whether you’re cultivating tomatoes in the garden or in a container, you need to meet certain basic requirements. Full sun, fertile soil, sufficient moisture, proper nutrients and vigilance against pests and disease is essential.

In the garden, always rotate crops, especially tomatoes. Soil-borne fungus organisms, like fusarium, cause yellowing, wilting, browning and death. Fusarium wilt survives from year to year…soil, infected plant debris, garden tools, infected transplants and even infected seed can be responsible for its spread. In containers, it’s less of a problem; although, it’s a good idea to start with fresh potting soil and a pot cleaned with a bleach solution (10 parts water to 1 part bleach) each spring – pretty hard to accomplish with a wine or whiskey half-barrel.

The barrel needs a half dozen one-inch holes drilled in the bottom for drainage. Cover the bottom with a circle of nylon screening and line the sides with black weed barrier. This combination allows for proper drainage, while prolonging the life of the wooden barrel – as long as 25 years, in my experience. Place 1″ of small marble chips or pea-stone across the bottom. Fill the first 1/3 of the barrel with shredded bark mulch (saves on expensive potting soil and is not as heavy) and fill the remainder, to within 2″ from the top, with well-drained potting soil.

To a very well-drained potting soil, add composted manure and/or finished garden compost, superphosphate (0-20-0) a balanced, granular, organic fertilizer and pelletized lime (the calcium and magnesium help prevent blossom end rot). Add in a small amount of polymers (available at garden centers) for more even soil moisture. They swell up with absorbed water, forming a reservoir for thirsty roots. Less fluctuation in soil moisture equals less stress, healthier plants and a more rested gardener!

As in the garden, tomato plants can be set deeply into the soil, up to their lowermost leaves for the development of strong roots. If, despite good cultural procedures, plants still turn yellow, check thoroughly for insects. Small black flea beetles, whiteflies and the tomato hornworm are the most common problems. Insecticidal soap (higher fatty acids than hand soap) will control sucking (like spider mite) and some chewing (like flea beetle) insects. Bacillus