Archive for January, 2010

When to plant tomatoes – Part 2

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

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A garden just doesn’t seem like a garden without at least a few tomatoes growing. A rich garden will also produce lots of great tasting tomatoes. One of the keys to tomato success in the garden, though, is in knowing when to plant them.

To simply say that this depends on the local climate doesn’t help a great deal, though it is very true. The problem is that climate is the average of the weather. This means that one year can be hotter and drier than normal, while the next may be colder and wetter than average.

To know the best time to plant them, then, it is easiest and best to understand the optimal growing conditions. You can then judge for yourself when the best time to grow them will be, according to your climate and the weather you are having in any given year. For people who have grown tomatoes for years, most of this will come as no surprise, but a few things might stand out as something not before considered.

Most important of all is that tomatoes are not a cool weather crop. Even a mild frost is enough to ‘zap’ an established tomato plant, killing a large number of the leaves and stems. Mild frosts, though, can be combated early in the growing cycle by covering the plant for the night. It isn’t necessary to have anything as elaborate as a greenhouse or cold frame; simply cutting the bottom out of a plastic gallon milk jug and placing this over the young plants can guard against quite a bit of frost damage.

Another consideration, though, is the general health and size of the plant when it is planted. If you plant directly from seed, the ground must be relatively warm and it needs to stay that way. If you plant the seedling plants, the continual warmth isn’t as firm a rule, and the larger the plant, the better its chances of it surviving and flourishing. Many people start the seeds inside, such as in peat pots, while others buy the seedling plants when they are already well established.

Cold and windy weather need to be guarded against in the early year, especially in areas prone to late winter storms.

There is a bit of a misunderstanding, though. Many people think that for the best crop, the tomatoes must go into the ground as early as possible. This isn’t always the case. Tomatoes grow according to three things; soil quality, amount of water, and amount of sunlight. It isn’t unusual to have one person planting tomatoes in April while a neighbor waits until June, yet for the two to have nearly identical crops.

Tomatoes require

Gardening: Growing productive tomato plants – Part 3

Saturday, January 23rd, 2010
Tomato Growth

A tomato plant doesn’t have to be ordinary, it can be grown as a highly-productive giant with a little knowledge of how it grows. You don’t need any special equipment or mail-order specialty plants to grow good tomatoes, either. I grow spectacular plants every year, using techniques I have stumbled on through trial and error.

If you are growing from seed, you need to get them started 6 to 8 weeks before time to set them out in the garden. This will mean starting them indoors, or in a hot-house, which is a separate issue altogether, so we will assume you have your plants in hand and ready to plant. Bigger is better when choosing plants, for you need to make the whole plant a root system. Tomatoes will grow roots from any part of the plant that touches the ground, this makes for the opportunity to grow Super-Plants.

The more root you have, the more portal for water and fertilizer, resulting in rapid, and unlimited growth. The end result is a spectacular harvest of large, delicious tomatoes. So, what I am going to tell you to do will seem harsh and frightening to most people, especially after purchasing nice bushy tomato plants!

Strip all the branches off, leaving only the top of the plant intact, this takes courage, but it will be alright in the end. Bury the plant all the way to the top, with just the top remaining above ground. Everything under-ground will become part of the root system, resulting in a high-yield plant. It will accept all the water and fertilizer you can throw at it, becoming a growing machine.

You can use compost, or other organic fertilizer around the base of the plant, but I tend to favor liquid fertilizer. Some are formulated for tomatoes, but I use an all-purpose(mix with water)powder fertilizer. Follow the directions, and apply about every two to three weeks. Also I spray the plants with calcium chloride every three to four weeks. This prevents blossom-end rot, and also increases the blossom-set, resulting in more tomatoes.

Tomatoes require full sun, and at least an inch of water a week, regular watering is critical to keep the plants healthy. They will need support, wooden stakes or wire cages are the two most common, however, you can invent your own method, if you desire. Some people pinch the suckers from their tomatoes, and I used to be one of these people. I have found that it is unnecessary, and decreases the yield substantially, so I leave them alone.

Mulch your plant(s) with a good layer of straw to help retain water, and also to control weeds. Keep an eye out for pests and disease, early detection is crucial to eliminating problems. If you follow these guidelines and tips, you should be enjoying tomatoes all summer long.

How to grow tomatoes – Part 2

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010
April 22 Morn

For the last five years I have operated a small greenhouse in Southwest Virginia in which I grew a variety of plants. The ones that I enjoyed the most by using myself were the tomato plants. These wonders of nature are one of the most sought after staples of my business and a much desired addition to any vegetable garden, whether it is an acre or just a small spot near your home.

I started these wonders from seeds, so I have an appreciation for the entire process. My experience involves the technical process of growing tomatoes to be sturdy wind and storm resistant varieties as well as massive producers of the most sought after prize at the local farmer’s market. Nearly everyone likes a good ripe tomato.

Personally I choose a soilless mixture when I am trying to germinate tomato seeds. It is lighter and allows the roots to freely develop within the rapid growth cycle of sprouting. Normally I will make three rows in an 11 x 20 germination tray in the soilless mixture, and then sprinkle the tomato seeds into the rows. Be careful not to dump too many as they will crowd each other and you will get a ton of small seedlings. Also, the germination percentage is very high, so unless you are able to plant or sell a good quantity, you want to seed accordingly.

I try to keep the mixture from drying out, but a friend that helped me get started described his method as letting the seedlings wilt before he watered them. That way they do not get too tall before they get a good stem. Also, it is best to grow them as cool as possible. Look for a pinkish/purple color in the stem.

I sold tomatoes a couple of different ways during my time as a greenhouse operator. One way was in a pot singly, which allows you to grow a bigger product for those early planters in your clientele. Some people will try to get a jump on everyone, so make sure to include this option in your inventory.

The other method is the classic multi-pack offering, whether it is 4, 6 or 9 cell trays. I sold many of each size, so experiment to see what works best. A critical component of this is to label your varieties if you choose to experiment with multiple varieties, because they look exactly the same in most cases.

Once you are beyond frost or freeze dates, you can venture out to your planting area for the excitement of planting. If you have a good size plant (tall) dig your hole deep and bury at least two-thirds of the stem. The little hairs on each side are roots waiting for the opportunity to grow. Not only will this make your plant more study, it will give more pathways for fertilizer and nutrients to aid your plant.

I have always supported my tomato plants with some type of stake, fencing or cage. The reason for this is that if you have a good growing season, the multitude of fruit will drag your plant to the ground where critters, slugs and blight are sure to ruin part of your crop.

Miracle Grow makes a specific tomato fertilizer, which I have not used too much, so I couldn’t really give an endorsement to it, but I have used regular Miracle Grow with good results. I always try to plant my tomatoes and scoop dirt up around the stem so the fluid stays near the roots until the ground can absorb it.

You must have sustained warmth for the plant to thrive. Also, there must be sufficient moisture to make good fruit. However, we went through one of the driest years I have ever known on my area and everyone said their tomato crops were exceptional. I know mine were. I had gorgeous Parks Whopper vines that produced massive amounts of fruit.

Raising tomatoes is a joy that I hope to always be able to experience.

Challenges of growing tomatoes

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010
Home Grown Tomato's .day 1.

Gardening season begins at different times in different parts of the country. No vegetable garden is ever complete without the presence of tomato plants. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or purchase plants, there will always be challenges involved in having a successful harvest.

The first consideration for any gardener who wishes to grow tomatoes involves the choice of variety. Tomato plants are separated into two groups for classification purposes. Determinate varieties produce a lot of tomatoes in a short amount of time whereas Indeterminate tomatoes produce a steadier harvest throughout the growing season.

When you are deciding what varieties of tomatoes to plant, look at the length of time it takes for the tomatoes to bear fruit. If you live in the south where you can put your plants out much earlier than people in the north can, you will want to plant some varieties that mature faster. Determinate varieties may be a better choice for you because once the weather gets extremely hot, it may be too hot for the flowers to set fruit.

CONSIDER YOUR CLIMATE:

Not all varieties of tomatoes are well suited to all areas of the country. If you live in an area that gets extremely hot, you want to look for varieties that have proved to be able to tolerate extremes of heat. If you are planting tomatoes from seed, the time you start the seeds will vary depending on where in the country you live. The general rule of thumb for starting seeds is that you want to plant your seeds ten weeks before you want to plant your tomatoes outdoors.

Some varieties that are very well suited to hot conditions and that did well in the growing trials designed to test suitability are Top Gun, Solar Fire, BHN 444, Crista and Surefire. The varieties producing the best results in those trials were Surefire and BHN 444. The biggest problems associated with hot weather are that the plants may not flower, the flowers may not set fruit, and that because of the extreme heat, it’s difficult, if not impossible to keep the plants evenly moist.

TOMATO DISEASES:

Tomatoes are susceptible to a host of problems ranging from Fusarium Wilt, and Verticillium Wilt, both of which fungal disease that appears to affect the leaves and the branches to root knot nematodes. Fusarium Wilt and Verticillium Wilt generally enter the plant through the roots, as do other fungal diseases affecting tomatoes. The main difference between Fusarium Wilt and Verticillium Wilt is that Verticillium Wilt doesn’t