Tomato Plants from Seedshow to grow tomato plants from seeds

There’s nothing more satisfying than producing one’s own food! Sow a seed, set out a transplant and you sit back daydreaming about that first, juicy tomato of the season. Well, whether you’re cultivating tomatoes in the garden or in a container, you need to meet certain basic requirements. Full sun, fertile soil, sufficient moisture, proper nutrients and vigilance against pests and disease is essential.

In the garden, always rotate crops, especially tomatoes. Soil-borne fungus organisms, like fusarium, cause yellowing, wilting, browning and death. Fusarium wilt survives from year to year…soil, infected plant debris, garden tools, infected transplants and even infected seed can be responsible for its spread. In containers, it’s less of a problem; although, it’s a good idea to start with fresh potting soil and a pot cleaned with a bleach solution (10 parts water to 1 part bleach) each spring – pretty hard to accomplish with a wine or whiskey half-barrel.

The barrel needs a half dozen one-inch holes drilled in the bottom for drainage. Cover the bottom with a circle of nylon screening and line the sides with black weed barrier. This combination allows for proper drainage, while prolonging the life of the wooden barrel – as long as 25 years, in my experience. Place 1″ of small marble chips or pea-stone across the bottom. Fill the first 1/3 of the barrel with shredded bark mulch (saves on expensive potting soil and is not as heavy) and fill the remainder, to within 2″ from the top, with well-drained potting soil.

To a very well-drained potting soil, add composted manure and/or finished garden compost, superphosphate (0-20-0) a balanced, granular, organic fertilizer and pelletized lime (the calcium and magnesium help prevent blossom end rot). Add in a small amount of polymers (available at garden centers) for more even soil moisture. They swell up with absorbed water, forming a reservoir for thirsty roots. Less fluctuation in soil moisture equals less stress, healthier plants and a more rested gardener!

As in the garden, tomato plants can be set deeply into the soil, up to their lowermost leaves for the development of strong roots. If, despite good cultural procedures, plants still turn yellow, check thoroughly for insects. Small black flea beetles, whiteflies and the tomato hornworm are the most common problems. Insecticidal soap (higher fatty acids than hand soap) will control sucking (like spider mite) and some chewing (like flea beetle) insects. Bacillus

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